Norway 2009                  

Sailing with s/y Siller Lass

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Part 4:  Southwards from Bodø

Part 1: Åsgårdstrand to Bergen     Part 2:  Bergen to Trondheim

Part 3: Trondheim to Bodø

Show From Bodø southwards larger size  The map is interactive - have a closer look at the different places by clicking on the pointers.


Saturday -Monday            In Bodø

An interesting place to spend a few days, visiting the Aeronautical museum, sights of cultural interest and meeting both sailors and other friends.


Bodø church and one of the many sculptures


Monday  13 th.  July   To Sør Arnøy   67.08N / 13.59E


Wind  :  2-3 m/s                 Distance 12,5 nm

Time  : 3 hrs                      Marina fee kr 125

Short trip with our new crew. Carefull manoeuvering into Krokholmen brygge, marked on the map as dry at low tide. Wonderful nature spot.

Dinner at the restaurant has to be ordered in advance.



Bridge between the islets                         Evening reflections

Tuesday 14th. July   To  Sør Fuglø      67.09n / 13.47E


Wind : 0-2 m/s              Distance : 8,3nm

Time : 2hrs                   Marina fee : kr 65


 Nordre Sørfuglanøy

 Sørfuglanøy beach


Very short guest pontoon but the local people are willing to help.  Pay the fee even if you use a local berth. Set a creel outside the harbour in the evening   and had a catch of 8 crabs, much to the crew's delight.


 Rowing to Sørfuglanøy



Setting crab creels  outside the harbour         Inspectionof the crab catch 


Thursday 16th. July           To  Bolga     66.48N / 13.14E

Distance:  31,2nm                     Marina fee :kr 60 + 30



A friendly and most recommendable harbour with  salmond production, farms and a local shopkeeper, postofficekeeper acting as tourist office. A three hour hike with the children through a cave exit on the north shore, Bolgaborra, with  15  sea eagles (haliaetus albicilla) above our heads, then round the island to the “ruggestein”, a rock of some 40 tons, which even the children could rock back and forth.

Met veteran singel Swedish sailor/journalist Kristina Karlson in “Artic” who has moved to Fanøy outside Sognefjorden to be able to sail and fish year round .


Bolgaborra                                Ruggesteinen


Friday  17th. July                To Rødøy    6126.40N / 13.03E


Wind : Westerly 3-6 m/s              Distance : 12,7 nm

Time  :  4 hrs.                               Marina fee : kr 125 with electricity


A pleasant cruise, fishing and catching several cod, saith and red snapper.

Cleaning, filleting and salting the fish on the pier givng plenty  for a large portion of fish cakes and  fried fish for at least 2 dinners. Saw and felt a motor boat mounting the pier just aft of us., the captain having gear problems.


Pier crawling                                          The days' catch


Rødøy is  always fine to visit because of the scenery, walks, food and freshly baked bread delivery in the morning . 


Saturday 18th. July                 To  Stokksviken, Onøya   66.22N / 12.50E


Distance : 19,6 nm                  Marina fee : Anchorage, no fee

We found a deep secluded bay with a sandy beach, good anchorage and hills to hike, perfect for both children and adults.  Fishing from Siller Lass in the evening gave two well sized cod within a few minutes.

Eagles in plenty all around. .Fantastic scenery.



Stokksviken  - can we anchor up here?  Bay from the hillside

Sunday  19th. July            To Nesna   66.12N / 13.01E 

Distance : 12,4nm                     Marina fee : kr 100

An easy sail southwards.  The local boat club gave us a warm welcome to the marina, excellent facilities..  Delicious meal of lightly salted cod fillet from yesterday, ovenbaked with garlic, ginger and other spices and herbs before the crew Bernt, Gabriella, Joakim and Thea started packing for an early start back to Bodø next morning. 


Monday 20th. July                To Sandnssjøen      66.01N /.12.38E

Distance : 14,1 nm                         Marina fee :kr 50 + strøm           

Motoring to Sandnessjøen  after following Bernt and family to their boat back to Bodø. Moored next to  SARS “Skuld”. Chat with retired skipper Kjell  Johansen who was skipper on Skuld when we joined them for  a sea operation out of Bodø in 2004.. Exchanget harbour information with Johan from “Anke”, and Arthur from “Kos”, both radio amateurs like our skipper.. Next morning briefing our new crewmember Rannveig from our hometown Kongsberg.

 Sailing from Sandbessjøen


Tuesday 21st. July             To  Strømøy     65.33N / 12.14E

Distance : 52,2 nm                    Marina fee: kr 50

 An excellent, sheltered  harbour organized by Brønnøysund boat club, no electricity but plenty of blueberrys!

A long trip into  the  Visten fjord national park . Narrow side fjord and unsucessfull anchoring in the too deep water and too much wind but  fine nature all around.

 Strømøy harbour


Wednesday 22nd. July           To  Vennesund,  Kvaløya  65.13N / 12.00E

Distance : 26,5 nm                                   Marina fee : kr 100 + 40 for elec.

The good weather continues and we sail  then fish just south of Torghatten. Good haul of cod and saith, perfectly cleaned and filleted by our captain.

Vennesund is a ferry station on the coast road with a newly restored old building with toilet facilities etc and bothe rooms and camping hut for hire and a restaurant.  German fishermen renting cabins and boats coming in with a 15 kg breiflabb (monkfish). Standard on the whole could be better, but an OK sheltered harbour.


Thursday 23rd. July             To Rørvik     64.52N / 11.14E .

Distance : 31,6 nm                        Marina fee : kr 120 incl. elect.

Fine jib sailing from Vennesund in southerly gusty 30 knots wind..  Temperature increasing  from the usual 12 degr to 20 degr. Summer is coming at last? Festivities in Rørvik with Tivoli and concerts. Sailed south of Torghatten to see the hole through the mountain.


Friday  24th. July                  To Abelvær og  Utvorda   64.35N / 10.57   

Distance :  22,7                               Marina :  kr 35  -pontoon, no water or elec.

We stopped at Abelvær to follow up our connections from our previous trip North. Had a friendly chat with Tore Øyehals who told that the business he started in 2004 for new seafood products had met too much competition and stopped production.


The modernised shop and cafè                  Recycled rowing boat!

Abelvær is a cosy little coastal settlement, which has been owned by the Brandtzæg family for 8 generations – see   Many improvments and renovations had been made and Abelvær Gård has been awarded the Olavs Rosa for the preservation of building customs,  trading and history from the 1800s

Utvorda. Harbour has a pontoon now, more activity with Norwegian and foreign holliday fishers and a camping site. A German fisherman came in with a ling weighing  10kg.  Utvorda is perhaps best  known for its local chef who serves particularly good food from “Utvorda Spiseri”.


Proud fisherman -10kg ling          Utvorda harbour in fog and rain

A hike along the nature path to the fortress, built by the Germans as part of Festung Norvegen during the second World War, is both interesting and informative.  We saw among other things,  10 and 15 cm gun positions, remains of radar  and comand center, remains of  Russian prison-labour caamps and tunnels for ammo storage.”Festung Utvorda” was huge and intended to stop allied troops from enering the Namsos district. Like they did in 1940.

Oven baked  white fish

Spread  fresh or lightly salted fillets over a large,greased ovenproof dish

Chop garlic and chilli over the fish, along with pepper (salt if necessary)

A few slices of tomato and cucumber give extra flavour and colour

Drip some lemon juice and olive oil over


Bake for 10-15 minutes at 200deg.C until the fish is just cooked. Serve with a sauce made of melted butter and chopped eggs to enhance the taste.

 Baked fish dish


Saturday 25th.  Stoppover in Utvorda – fog, heavy rain and wind up to gale force.

 Hot drinks aboard today


Utvorda harbour will be extended and improved before next summer by the owner family Grande, who also manage the popular Sjøbua Spiseri. 


Sunday 26th. July         To Sætervika 61,24N / 29E


Distance :  26,7 nm                      Marina fee :   kr 100 incl.elect.


Rain and fog made our choice of route easy. No sail out to Villa and the outer islands but an intricate trip inshore craving exact navigation - rather exciting.   

One point to note in Northern Norway is the use of VHF for weather forecasts and important communication, quite different from Southern Norway with misuse to a certain extent.

Sætervika is Ok for an overnight stop, facilities nothing to write home about.


Monday  27th. July           To  Stokksund   61.02N / 10.04E

Distance :  29,4nm                Marina fee  ; kr 125

Fine summer weather now, inviting for a fishing break. Pleasant company of other sailors and baked fish for dinner - a catch of 10 saith and a redfish.   Fine facilities.  More sailing boats here than we've seen for a long time.

 Part of Stokksund marina


Tuesday 28th. July               To Mausundvær, Frøya   63.52N / 08.40E               

Distance  : 43,2nm                  Marina fee :  kr 50 + 50 

An exciting sail to one of the outer island archipelagos north of Frøya. A predominantly fishing harbour with helpfull, friendly and interesting local people. Pub and restaurant "Sjøblomsten" fine for an evening chat. Met other sailors who had walked across the bridges from Aursøy, another guest harbour in this island group. Bought 15 clams picked at 25 meters from a local diver.

All these outer islands and fishing communities are highly recommendable for sailors.


  Calm evening in Mausundvær                                                      Clamshells alive


Wednesday  29th. July               To Fillan, Hitra    63.36N / 08.59E 


Distance :   29 nm          Marina fee : kr 100 incl.electricity       

Fillan, Hitra has a new guest pier to port side after passing the lighthouse.

A fine sail most of the way from Mausund to Fillan.  Hitra windmills seen from several directions.  Met on the quay by our friends Roger and Hilde,  we first met  at Utvorda and later at Brønnøysund boatclub.   Had an immensely interesting tour of Hitra midle school where Roger is the principle and a very creative manager. This school has a maritime profile and even an original lighthouse in the playground.  All the youngsters pass the junior skipper certificate to enable them to tackle boat life..  This school ought to be a model for many others because of all the equipment, cantine service giving the pupils a midday meal every day, and inovative teaching principles.

 Fyrlykt nr. 4 fra Valholmskjær

We were taken home to Roger and Hildes beautiful home on the north shore of Hitra for a dinner of roasted wild lamb, berries with icecream and Hilde's special caramel sauce.


Thursday 30th. July          To Kristiansund    63.07N / 07.44E

Distance : 58 nm                       Marina fee : kr 150


Sail down the Trondheimsleia to Kristiansund after bidding farewell to our favourite crewmember Rannveig. After 9 hours of sailing , entering a crowded harbour in Kristiansund and studying weatherforcasts  for Hustadvika, our next challenge and one of the many weather critical stretches on our coast.  Marina facilities are good.

An intense low with galeforce winds in Kattegat was creating havoc down south with two major shipwrecks. This devil  is moving northwards in our direction. Will we able to cross Hustadvika before

this low reaches our area?


Friday 31st. July               To  Tornes       62.50N / 07.02 E

Distance  : 38nm                      Marina fee :  kr 100 incl. electricity abd shower

Leaving Kristiansund 0800 for  a  five hour sail through Hustadvika and Stopleleia, passing the huge North Sea gas terminal Ormen Lange and entering Tornes yacht harbour to meet  Ole Nekstad, owner of our previous HR 36. Just as we enter harbour , the front moves in with heavy rain. Good timing!  Another gourmet dinner with  Randi and Ole in their beautiful home up in the hills. What have we done to deserve all this hospitality? Ole and Randi are a fascinating couple with unusual work experience from Jan Mayen,  Greenland and Africa. Discussing a possible visit , weather permits, to Randis birth island Saeterøya just south of Bjørnsund the next day.

 Ole's self made grill house and furniture

Saturday 1 st. Aug                   To Sæterøya and Finnøya    62.48N / 06.30E

Distance : 15,2 + 1,5 nm           Marina fee Finnøya : Kr 100 .

We have travelled a total of 1740 nm so far.

Fine weather gave us the opportunity for lunch on Sæterøya, a charming little island with only 4 houses and some "wild" sheep. No one lives on the island now but Randi was brought up there and had to row over to Finnøya to attend school.  Afternoon over to the recently  extended  harbour with a very narrow entrance.  The facilities are excellent and include a kitchen and lounge in addition to a grill and seating outside the building. 



Finnøya is interesting because of the activity and ingenuity. Finnøya Motors were built there and other factories produce gears, propellors and winches for the global market. Fishing and farming thrive. 

Visited a farm with over 100 animals,  a robot for milking the cows that could wander free in the barn, decide when they wanted to eat,  to rest, to get their back scratched or to be milked.  Even the small calves helped themselves to fodder and waited patiently in a queue for milk from an artificial "cow". 




Sunday 2nd. August            To   Ålesund    66.29N / 06.09E

Distance:  24 nm                         Marina fee : kr 150 incl. electricity.


Moored up in the town harbour alongside Najambo from the Netherlands, with a very friendly crew. Fine weather and a relaxing day before an early start to sail round Stad next day.  The main holiday period is now over, plenty of space in the marina which has new rules in case of fire. A 4 meter zone is kept free between boats moored to the quay. Ålesund, the Jugend town, is always well worth a visit.


Scenes from Jugend town Ålesund

Monday  3rd. Aug.              To  Silda  62.01N / 05.12E

Distance : 47 nm                        Marina fee : kr 100 Silda harbour


Seven hour sail in relatively calm, warm weather, and one hour fishing.  Fried mackerel for dinner!  Moored up in the northern harbour but walked over to the southern, shallower one, with a restaurant, in the evening. One boat , Carpe Diem, ( see: came in with lots of fresh mackerel. We salted one portion ready to smoke and marinated (“soused”) another portion to be eaten with boiled potatoes another day.  Mackerel isn’t popular with everybody but we enjoy it served in different ways.

Soused mackerel

1 kg mackerel cleaned and gutted

1 tbsp. Salt in 1 l water

1 dl vinegar

1 onion chopped

Chilli pepper, garlic and pepper

Fresh herbs, if any aboard, according to tatse.


Cut the fish into 3-4 pieces if large

Boil  all the ingredients for 10 min. to make  good stock

Add the mackerel and simmer until just cooked 5-7 min

Allow the fish to cool in the stock and keep cold until use


Serve chilled with boiled new potatoes, cucumber salad, grated carrots and sour cream

Silda is a small scenic island with few permanent inhabitants but many of the houses are used in the summer.


Tuesday  4th.  Aug.                   To Dingja    661.+1,5N / 05.03E 

Distance :  73nm                       Marina fee : kr 100

  Impressive Hornelen                    Active Ship yard

Start 08.00 for an 11 hour sail in good sunny sailing weather. Varied nature and scenery - mountains, like Hornelen, dramatic islands and narrow fjords, shipyards and industry too.

Dingja has a store with post office and harbour facilities. Fine stopping place before or after crossing Sognesjøen. Fine bay nearby with a beach for bathing.  


Entrance to Dingja    and evening sun

Wednesday 5th.  Aug.       To Strusshavn     60.24N / 05.11E      

Distance : 47,1 nm              Harbour fee . Kr 100 incl.


Checked the tides and timed our departure  to have the current with us in through Fonnesstraumen, little current in Lure fjorden and the current with us out through Alverstraumen.  Motoring all the way to Flatøy, then south to Strusshavn,  8 hrs altogether.   Careful navigation is necessary, especially with attention to bridge heights. The course is well marked as the fast ferries travel here.

Strusshavn on Askøy, is a good sheltered harbour known for the production of Viksund boats nowadays. Earlier it was used as a quarantine harbour for foreign ships suspected of  carrying the plague. King Kristian IV  commanded that  rings to aid  mooring  ships should be fixed in the harbour in 1663.

The harbour today is well equiped with a fee that covers everything, showers and laundry included. Grocery shop 300m.

Thursday 6th. Aug.         To Bekkjarvik 60,00N /   05.92 E  

Distance : 27,1 nm       Marina fee kr. 100     

Bekkjarvik is a busy harbour in the summer.   

  Bekkjarvik harbour 


Bekkjarvik itself is a cosy little village with white painted villas, a speed ferry to Bergen and a variety of good shops sentrally placed by the quayside.  A village showing signs of wealth, as many other places on the west coast.


Friday  7th. Aug.                To Skudeneshavn   

Distance  : 49 nm                        Marina fee kr. 100  


 Entrance to Skudeneshavn                                     Topspot in harbour

Left Bekkjarvik at 6 am. Short  stop in Haugesund for provisons then to Skudeneshavn, a historic and well kept old fishing village. We remark again on the affluence along the western coast – generated by offshore activity, salmon farms, fishing and related industries.  Houses and surroundings in good shape but marinas filled up to capacity with large cabin cruisers and sailing boats over 40ft.  

 Lay longside gainst  “Topspot”, with friends from Scotland who enjoy the luxury of all the marinas in Norway with water, fuel, electricity and toilet facilities, something only found as yet in a few places on the west coast of Scotland..


Saturday  8th. August        To Tananger   58.56N / 05.34E

Distance : 19,3 nm                     Marina fee .  kr 100


Heavy rain and thunder expected so we chose to stay in Tananger before a longer trip around the South tip of Norway next day.  Sailed through the sound at Kvitsøy near the coloaasl radio masts. The local hotel was hosting a wedding reception so couln’t serve the dinner we hoped to treat our family to!  They returned the invitation and we enjoyed a delicious roast beef dinner with Aud Ingri and Ketil at their home.

The harbour itself is surrounded by offshore industry and not exactly scenic but is  OK once you get to the piers. Facilities OK, shops relatively nearby and a good quayside seafood store a few minutes walk away.

 Kvitsøy masts in thundery weather



Sunday 9th Aug.                       To Farsund    58.05N / 06.48E

Distance  81,5 nm                   Marina fee -   kr  0,00


Farsund marina is one of the few taking no fee for visting boats, is very good and well sheltered and very popular with sailors. We came in at 9pm after a long day at sea. Our stay was short  as we left early next day but met up again with Jorun and Rudolf on their Dehler, Dollaer IV.  10-12 sailing boats in the marina, many foreign (from The Netherlands, Germany, Swedeb and Britain)


Monday 10th. Aug.                  To Kristiansand   58.08N / 08.06E

Distance   47,1 nm                            Marina fee   kr 220

Easy sailing round Norway's most southerly point, Lindesnes. 

  Lindesnes lighthouse

Were welcomed in by Christine and Pat on Victrix and spent a pleasant evening with them  comparing experiences. They had spent three great weeks in the Lofoten area.

Summer isn’t over yet, the temp. is over 20 deg. And sea water is nearing 18 deg.  but few guest boats are to be seen in harbours like Kristiansand . Maybe a stiff  harbour fee is the reason for so few visitors?   Why does the community spoil the effect of statues by placing garbage containers beside them?

Tuesday  11th.  Aug. til   Friday 14th. Aug

 We  “holidayed” the last few days, sailing first to  Lure kilen, Blindeleia along with Victrix.  A beautiful small anchorage with excellent holding bottom.  Noticeable difference in the weather since leaving Tananger  and we make the most of it, sailing when we can. 


Next day to Arendal with a most interessting stop for a chat with Leif  Svalesen, the diver responsible for discovering the wreck of “Fredensborg I” which sank outside Tromøye in 1768. Leif has more or less dedicated his life since 1972  to first find by research,  the position of the ship,  organize dives, keep contact with the authorities, then travel both to the West Indies and Ghana to fill out the historical details,   Aust Agder Cultural Museum has a magnificent display of artifacts from the ship and a description of the ships last journey. 

Leif Svalesen has also taken the initiative to restore the remains of Fort Fredensborg in Ningo, Ghana and the Danish government has now taken over the responsibiliity for this.

Our interest in the project stems from the fact that Jon Eriks tipoldemor had a brother Christian Wilhelm Düntzfelt. His company had up to 17 ships sailing  in the slave trade triangle and one fo them was “Fredriksborg II” , built in 1777 , and very similar to “Fredensborg I”


Artefacts from Fredensborg I taken up from the deep     Arendal guest marina

Arendal guest harbour with a lot of wash,  was disappointing. No other guest boats staying , some even left after the foto was taken,  because of the high marina fee, kr 250.


Thursday in Høegs mooring, Risør after a 31 nm sail, again in good sailing weather apart from a really heavy shower in the afternoon.  Swim in 18 deg. On arrival then dinner with Kate and Nils. This has become more or less a  tradition at the end of our summer expeditions, very welcome to us! 


 Heavy rain flattening the sea

Friday with a good weather forecast and Saturday with  substantial rainfall expected, we decided to sail to Åsgårdstrand. Fantastic last day sailing  65nm, partly wind 12 m/s, Siller Lass performing almost as a racehorse!



 Back at Åsgårdstrand                     The final late evening dinner this expedition               

This logbook finishes here more or less. We managed to steer clear of the oil spillage from “Full City”  wrecked on the rocks near Langesund, in a storm 2 weeks earlier, causing dreadful  pollution along the coastline.


To sum up:

We will have have sailed 2400 nm.  87 days at sea and 77 different moorings or marinas and some wonderful remote anchorages.

We had motored or motorsailed more than 70% of sailing time, more than we wish because the wind has been contrary most of the time and we had a time schedule to follow.

Our wonderful Hallberg-Rassy 37 has been in excellent shape all the way. Touching rocks once at the narrow Nesna harbour entrance with minor scratches to the lead keel. Otherwise no mishaps.

Our Yanmar 50 HP engine has been drinking 2,5 liters/hour average,- which is very reasonable! Our furling main with vertical battons has functioed without snags.

We used, for safety and easy handling, only our small (ca. 20sq.m)  hard weather jib.  Several exciting genaker stretches. Easy handling with a snuffing sock.


We have experienced a lot of sunny weather, only three-four portbound rainy days. Cold northly winds, particularly in May and June.

Water temperature mostly 9-12 degrees,  limiting swimming to 10 second dips!

Made many new friends onboard and ashore. People in general were interested in our senior expedition and our website. We have seen Norway from a new  perspective. We have learned to fish on the right “hills” getting a good catch two hours before high tide. The young ones loved fishing and eating Normas shipmade fish cakes.

All in all a wonderful way to spend a summer!


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