Norway west 2009 - Trondheim to Bodø
Back in Trondheim after a fantastic wedding in the mountains near Otta, half way between Trondheim and Oslo.
70 guests celebrated with the happy couple, Gabriela and Bernt, from Friday to Sunday at Brekke seter, and the wedding ceremony itself in Nord Sel church.
Monday 22. JuneTo Austrått, Ørland 63.44,00N / 09.42,9E
Wind:NW 2-10 m/s Distance:25,1 nm
The weather has improved greatly.though the wind is still directly against us. Overnight stop at Austrått which is of historical interest.
Jon Erik discussed rescue situations with the crew of SARS boat Skuld. The skipper Odd-Inge Riiber warned us about floating timber because of extremly high tides. Skulds main job so far this summer season has been to cut nets and ropes from propellers. On Siller Lass , we have wetsuite, goggles and leadbelt,- so we should be able to cope ourselves if we get caugt in a net. In Rørvik harbour we got a new friend in the Finish globetrotter Tikki who moored up alongside us in the overcrowded harbour. Impressive skipper with a severely handicapped crewmember. The skipper's wife had developed Altzheimer when they got to New Zealand,but they keep sailing!
.Friday 26th.JuneTo Kirkøy, Vega 65.42N / 11.55
Wind: 1-4 m/s Distance:69,3 nm
We saw porpoises and had close contact with sea gulls attacking an eagle. Fine weather, calm sea and warm for this long 10 hour motor haul. We wonder: when are we going to get sailwind?
We had chosen Kirkøy-Holand on the north side as our harbour. Mooring at the “rorbu” got us in close contact with German and Polish holiday fishermen who rentet boats at NOK 450/day and a six birth cabin at 900 NOK/day. Extremely efficient they were, bringing in some 50kg per boat each trip and 2 trips daily. This export of high quality fileted fish must be big business for the visitors. A quota of 15kg / person per stay is a joke. On Siller Lass we catch fish but only what we can eat each day! Polish fishers
Cod stew for 2 persons
Chop and lightly fry the veg. in oil. Add the water, wine and spices and simmer for about 5 min. Stir in the sour cream. Thicken with maizena or flour if necessary.Place the fish in pieces on top and simmer for a few minutes with the lid on.
An really tasty easy “everyday” dinner made in one pot.
We were fascinated ny the research farm at Tjøtta, today North Norways largest farm with a history dating back to the Bronze age. Snorre Sturlasson writes” Øyvind Skaldaspillar, the last Norwegian herald of any significance had a son Hårek – who bought Tjøtta. Hårek cleared out all the small farmers and he became a governor for St. Olav.”
We walked through this historic farm and discovered that the stately mansion served excellent dinners at reasonable prices. Øyvind Skaldaspillar (912-995) wrote “ Small is suffering time, but long is mealtime”.
Time 1,5 hrs sailing Marina: anchoring in the lagoon
Sushi cod caught 30 min. before eating as a starter.
Thursday 2nd. July To Træna 66.30N / 12.03E
Wind : 2-3 m/s Distance : via Sanna 32,5mn
Time: 5 hrs Pontoon fee: kr 100
Træna at a distnce, early in the morning
Caught a fair sized tusk (brosme) at 50 meters depth, just south of Lovund. Skipper surprised at muscular strength of the beast! Norma becoming an expert gaffer. Hundreds of puffin chicks doing their best to fly, then an eagle nesting on a beacon top. Magnificent views all the way towards the dramatically formed Træna islands.
Stopped at Sanna, the outermost Træna with its mountain top radar station. Hike to see the huge cathedral cave and learn more about this, the oldest fishing village in Norway – with house ruins dating back to stone age.
Then round to Husøy where most of the 450 strong population of Træna live.
We have now reached the Artic circle 66.30 deg N.
Met by a very hospitable Ole Johnny Olsen, the local shopowner, on the pontoon just outside the northern harbour on Husøy. The normal guest harbour lies slightly further south. Træna’s houses are remarkably well kept, new business premises have been built and older ones brought into use again, as for example the kafè by our pontoon. We had a lovely Caesar salad and interviewed the two young enthusiasts recently moved up from Oslo: Bjarne Ylvisaker and Marit Bertheusen. Both with 10 years of hotel-catering experience. Their idol is the successful Malin at Klokkergården on Rødøy, who we shall visit later. Husøy is today a thriving fishing community with a fish processing factory. The Norwegian government had just decided to give Træna electricity grid connenction to the mainland, and to build a new indusatrial key. There is a future at Træna!
Friday 3rd.- 5th. July To Myken then Rødøy
Wind. Increasing with gusts up to 13 m/s Distance: 36 nm
Time : 5 hours Pontoon: kr 100 +w25 for elect.
Early start to go via Myken lighthouse where there was a short pontoon, though more pontoon space on the populated island Myken. Picturesque surroundings and fishing village, but little vegeatation in comparison to Træna.
Good reach from Myken to Rødøy , sailing at last into the fantasic arkipelago of Rødøy.
Klokkergården on Rødøy has expanded since we were here 5 years ago. Malin Arntzen , the owner, has now 2 pontoons and plans a third pier for larger boats. She has three large buoys which can be rented on a day basis or for longer periods at NOK 1000/month.
Malin is full of energy, enthusiasm and plans – service for sailors and their boats, rooms for guests, restaurant, newly baked bread brought aboard in the morning. And much more.
Klokkergården is a family company with 2 brothers, mother (cook), father and Malin. The business does well now and almost all the boat guests eat at the restaurant. Hiking up to the top of spectacular Rødøyløven and cycling are popular activities for sailors needing to stretch their legs.
Two night stay at Rødøy gave good time for a hike up Rødøyløve on Sat. Fantastic views in all directione from the top. Met HR 39 “Kamci” with friends from Molde again and sampled Malins fish courses and white wine in the evening with them.
Sunday 5th.- 7th July to Ørnes 66.52N / 13.42E
Wind : 8-12 m/s Distance: 27,6nm
Time: 44,5 hrs. Marina fee: kr 60 + kr 20 for elec.
Fine sail to Ørnes which was a delightfully quiet harbour sheltered from the cold northerly winds at sea. Met “ Petrell” with a really helpful, friendly crew. Spent a warm sunny day waiting for daughter Lena who came with son Jesper on Monday.
Ørnes ahd a fine but small guest pontoon by the clubhouse, with all facilities, diesel on the pier and shops near by.
Tuesday 7th. July To Vallvågen, Meløy
Wind: Almost calm in the fjords, 9-11m/s at sea Distance : 7,6 nm
Time 3 hrs Marina fee : kr 60 + 20
Valvågen Båtforening has a quiet harbour with a few guest berths and a cluhouse, with toilets and showers but no laundry machines. Open kafe in the summer. Magnificent scenery with hundreds of easy climable peaks and Holandsfjorden with Svartisen glacier just a couple of hours in the fjord.
Fine weather for fishing.Teaching Jesper how to fish on the way. Caught enough cod and saith for skipper Jon Erik to fillet and mince. Fish deep two hours before high tide is the rule for maximising catch. Delicious fishcakes for our evening meal.
Fun to have some of the family aboard.
Wednesday 8th July To Støtt 66.55N 7 13.26 E
Wind: calm to 8-9m/s Distance: 12nm
Time: 2hrs Harbour fee: kr 80 +20
Trying to avoid too much wind, we left relatively early and had an easy sail over to Støtt, before fishing for a while. Jesper is an eager pupil and has already “mastered” several types of fishing. Hope to see the Midnight sun tonight.
The Sørensen family still own and manage the fish processing plant, store and post office here.
This harbour is sheltered from all winds. Showers and WC available.
We have been extremely lucky weatherwise so far.
A few strokes in water only 10 dec. C Støtt harbour with welcoming flags
Thursday 9th. July To Sørfuglanøy 57.03N / 1346E
Wind : 6-8 m/s Distance : 12,7 nm
Time : 3 hrs Marina : kr 65
Sail in fine conditions to one of natures pearls--mountainous islands, long white sandy beaches, birds and plants. Met 3 fellows on a holiday, rowing from island to island in a Norlands boat. They often row early in the morning when the sea is relatively calm.
Friday 10th. July To Bodø 67.17N / 14.22E
Wind: 2.3 m/s Distance : 21 nm
Time: 3hrs Marina fee: kr 150 incl.electricity
Early start 5 am. Found a berth on the guest pontoon in time for a shower and breakfast with Lena and Jesper before they left for home. Bodø harbour is undergoing renovation. A new promenade and harbour front will be finished within a year.
Visit to the Aeronautical museum.
2 day stay waiting for next crew.
We've had a week of fantastic weather!
We've now reached our most northerly point for this cruise.
Monday 13 th. July To Sør Arnøy 67.08N / 13.59E
Wind : 2-3 m/s Distance 12,5 nm
Time : 3 hrs Marina fee kr 125
Short trip with our new crew. Carefull manoeuvering into Krokholmen pier, marked on the map as dry at low tide. Wonderful nature spot with bridges between the small islands.
Dinner at the restaurant has to be ordered in advance.
Tuesday 14th. July To Sør Fuglø 67.09n / 13.47E
Wind : 0-2 m/s Distance : 8,3nm
Time : 2hrs Marina fee : kr 65
Long sandy beach at Sørfulanøy Harbour from the distance
Very short guest pontoon but the local people are willing to help. Pay the fee even if you use a local berth. We set a creel outside the harbour in the evening and had a catch of 8 crabs, much to the crew's delight.
Wednesday 15th. July To Bolga 66.48N / 13.14E
Wind : 0-3m/s Distance : 31,2nm
Time : 3,5 hrs. Marina fee : kr 60 + 20
Bolga is an interesting island to visit with its mountains and hiking possibilities. Several people stay on the island whcih has salmon farms and other industries. We had a fine crab meal ashore in the evening and a hike to Bolgabørra - a hole through the mountain - and Ruggesteinen - a huge stone that can be rocked from side to side.