Siller Lass  2009

 
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Norway west 2009 -  Trondheim to Bodø

Part 1: Åsgårdstrand to Bergen    Part 2: Bergen to Trondheim

Part 4: Southwards from Bodø

 


Vis Trondheim to Bodø i et større kart
Sunday 21st. June

Back in Trondheim after a fantastic wedding in the mountains near Otta, half way between Trondheim and Oslo.

70 guests celebrated with the happy couple, Gabriela and Bernt, from Friday to Sunday at Brekke seter, and the wedding ceremony itself in Nord Sel church.
Sister Dorothy with son Bill and grandson Cameron came with us and spent the night aboard Siller   Lass before flying off to Edinburgh and Bermuda respectively. Gabriela and Bernt

 
In Trondheim by the railway station!                                    Bridge opens as we leave

Monday 22. JuneTo Austrått, Ørland       63.44,00N / 09.42,9E

Wind:NW 2-10 m/s                  Distance:25,1 nm
Time.4,5 hrs                           Marina fee:kr 100 incl. elec.

The weather has improved greatly.though the wind is still directly against us. Overnight stop at Austrått which is of historical interest.
The marina has a pontoon for visiting boats and a 2m deep channel has been dredged to make entrance possible for most sailors. Diesel available on the quayside.Good facilities though no shops in the vicinity.
Austrått fortress: We visited Austrått coastal fortress, today a war museum.The fort was an improtant part of Hilters “Festung Norwegen”. All along our coastline we see remains of “Festung Norwegen”  
The most important goal of the 350 000 man strong occupation of Norway was to hinder allied transport of war supplies to Murmansk and to secure the connection to neutral Sweden who supplied Hitler with iron ore through Narvik harbour.
The Trondheim fjord had an important submarine basei in Trondheim city and the fjord entrance was guarded by the impressive Austrått fort.
In 1942 the battleship Gneisenau was bombed in Kiel harbour and the ship was declared unfit for further service. All the guns were removed and relocated in a number of fortifications.in Europe. In 1943 the C-tower from the Gneisenau was put into operation at Austrått fort.
 Canons at Austrått
Austrått castle  -
click on the map above for more informationAustrått castle was only a 5 min. walk from Siller Lass in the shallow harbour. It was finished as we see it today by Ove Bjelke, governor of Norway for the Danish king, in 1656.
Our excellent guide Erik in medieval costume, gave us a tour of Medieval and Reneasance Norway. Erik's history lesson and seeing the Austrått World War fortress made the stop well worth while.

 
Austrått castle entrance                                Guide Erik


Tuesday 23rd. June  To Stokksund  64.02,38N / 10.03,69E

Wind:  2-4 m/s                 Distance:    39,9 nm
Time:   6hrs                      Marina:   kr 125
Interesting sail navigating among islands , almost being run down by a German fisher who suddenly started his motor at full speed without turning round to see Siller Lass about 40 m away. 
We passed  7 windmills, still surprisingly few for this west country with plenty of wind. The largest installation we have seen so far was at Smøla with a park of some 70 mills.
Stokksund, Kuringvåg Båt Forening is a charming place. We were warmly welcomed and invited up to the clubhouse for rømmegrøt and spekemat, typical Norwegian specialities on Midsummers eve. Many local people had met up and they'd also made a bonfire for the occasion.
We talked to an interesting couple from Trondheim who informed Jon Erik, a budding accordian player that the definition of a gentleman was "a person who CAN play the accordian but who doesn't do it in public!"


Jon Erik got the "me " or cross bearings, the coordinates for a spot on 120 meter where we should catch large seith at inflowing sea.  So lets try!

Wednesday 24th. June    To Sætervika   64.23,67 / 10.28,97E

Wind:.0-3 m/s                               Distance:       27.8 nm
Time:  5 hrs                                   Harbour fee:  kr 50 + kr 50 for electricity

Well, we tried, and managed to keep the boat placed correctly, and caught a 4-5 kg saith!. The scenery on the way to Sætervika was magnificent in the brilliant  sunshine - rolling green clad hills / mountains, volcanic-looking  in form with several huge caves way up high. 
Sætervika harbour has about 25 small boats for hire and just as many .German vehicles ready to transport fish catches to Germany, probably well above the quantity allowed.

Jon Erik was in his element filleting the saith then grinding it up with the mincer he bought in an antique shop in Ålesund for kr 100.  The result was made into seikaker by ships cook, Norma, in accordance with a recipe taken from internet -seikaker aren't normally made in our home!
    
 
Saith preparation, cooking and eating

What a wonderful day!

Thursday 25th. June  To Rørvik   64.57,6N / 11.13,7E

Wind:  N-NE 2-5 m/s              Distance:     36,6 nm
Time:  5 hrs.                           Marina fee:   kr 125
 
Sailing past Torghatten, Brønnøysund
Warmer weather, water still around 12 deg.  The guest pontoons were difficult to find, the signpost being ashore, hidden behind moored boats.   OK marina but not really inviting and rather small for the number of vessels.
We visited the interesting NORWEG, centre for coast culture and livelihood
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NORWEG museum building                         Rescue boat SKULD in Rørvik

Jon Erik discussed rescue situations with the crew of SARS boat Skuld. The skipper Odd-Inge Riiber warned us about floating timber because of extremly high tides. Skulds main job so far this summer season has been to cut nets and ropes from propellers. On Siller Lass , we have wetsuite, goggles and leadbelt,- so we should be able to cope ourselves if we get caugt in a net. In Rørvik harbour we got a new friend in the Finish globetrotter Tikki who moored up alongside us in the overcrowded harbour. Impressive skipper with a severely handicapped crewmember. The skipper's wife had developed Altzheimer when they got to New Zealand,but they keep sailing!

.Friday 26th.JuneTo Kirkøy, Vega   65.42N / 11.55

Wind:    1-4 m/s          Distance:69,3 nm
Time:10 hrs                Marina:kr 60, no electricity

We saw porpoises and had close contact with sea gulls attacking an eagle. Fine weather, calm sea and warm for this long 10 hour motor haul. We wonder: when are we going to get sailwind?
Vega is on the World Heritage list with its 10.000 year old stone age villages and the eider down culture. Tending to either ducks as semi domesticated birds is unique. The peaks are impressive with Trollvasstind at 800 meters. We rented bikes and visited the “capital” Gladstad with its beautiful church and our next alternative as harbour: Vegsteinen with its culture, fishery and motor museum. Cycling on Vega is a bit like cycling on Syd Koster. You can cover most of the flat side of the island in a day.
  Part of the boat museum

We had chosen Kirkøy-Holand on the north side as our harbour. Mooring at the “rorbu” got us in close contact with German and Polish holiday fishermen who rentet boats at NOK 450/day and a six birth cabin at 900 NOK/day. Extremely efficient they were, bringing in some 50kg per boat each trip and 2 trips daily. This export of high quality fileted fish must be big business for the visitors. A quota of 15kg / person per stay is a joke. On Siller Lass we catch fish but only what we can eat each day!  Polish fishers

Cod stew for 2 persons

500-700gr cod filet (or other fish sorts)
½ leek
1 large carrot
3 stalks of celery

1 paprika
2-3 potatoes
Chilli pepper, herbs to taste, salt and pepper
1 dl white wine
1-2 dl sour cream
2dl water or fish stock

Chop and lightly fry the veg. in oil. Add the water, wine and spices and simmer for about 5 min. Stir in the sour cream. Thicken with maizena or flour if necessary.Place the fish in pieces on top and simmer for a few minutes with the lid on.
 Cod stew for 2

An really tasty easy “everyday” dinner made in one pot.

Sunday 28th. June  To Tjøtta    65.49N / 12.26E

Wind:    0-2 m/s              Distance:   17,3 nm
Time:    3 hrs                   Marine fee. kr 100 incl. electricity
A short sail in cloudy weather, the sun came out as we moved inland to explore the countryside
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 Tjøtta havn
The marina had several guest pontoons, elec. and water. Presumably more facilities ashore though we didn't find anything open. We took the  hike around the Tjøtta
farm area and learned a lot about sheep and grazing and culture from the sign posts en route.

We were fascinated ny the research farm at Tjøtta, today North Norways largest farm with a history dating back to the Bronze age.  Snorre Sturlasson writes” Øyvind Skaldaspillar, the last Norwegian herald of any significance had a son Hårek – who bought Tjøtta. Hårek cleared out all the small farmers and he became a governor for St. Olav.”

We walked through this historic farm and discovered that the stately mansion served excellent dinners at reasonable prices. Øyvind Skaldaspillar (912-995) wrote “ Small is suffering time, but long is mealtime”.
Monday 29th. June   To  Sandnessjøen   66.01N / 12.38E
Wind:  NE  Increasing to 5-6 m/s        Distance: 20 nm
Time:   3 hrs                                        Marina:  Guest pontoon
Little activity in the marina. Guest pontoon for boats up to 35ft.  No harbor fee charged, water and electricity but no other facilities found.  This is a busy harbour for industry and communication. The sailing club guest harbour has probably better facilities, but is a bit far off when groceries and other purchases have to be brought onboard.
Sandnessjøen has the necessary shops, but is relatively uninteresting. It is a good starting point for bicycle tours and island hopping.
   
Alstadhaug church      and Petter Dass museum
We had a stop at Alstadhaug church where Petter Dass was parson and poet for 18 years. He became well known as one of the most important poets, describing the harsh life of the fishermen in N. Norway,  of the Dano-Norwegian realm of his time.  An architecturally spectular new museum designed by Snøhetta has been built in his memory, quite a contrast to the medival church.A relatively short pontoon enables access by boat, anchoring is also possible

Tuesday 30th. June   To  Hjartøy lagune  66.00N / 12.24E 

Wind:  3-5 m/s                        Distance:  7,5 nm

Time   1,5 hrs sailing            Marina: anchoring in the lagoon
The scenery the last few days has been indescribable – rugged mountains all around, fjords, green plains, small harbours and bays, all at their best in brilliant sunshine
We visited Hjartøy in 2004, and just had to see this beautiful lagoon again. Anchoring at 15 metres, swimming, luch,visiting the Viking age ruins ashore and finally dinner with

Sushi cod caught 30 min. before eating as a starter.
Skyping brother Olaf in Philadelphia over ICE Broadband and Skype-camera showing the “ 7 Sisters and Dønnamannen”. Funny mix of Olden times and High Tech.!

Wednesday 1. July     To Solfjellsjøen   66.06N / 12.28

Wind:  Calm                        Distance : 12 nm
Time:  2 hrs                        Marina:  New guest pontoon kr 150

An interesting place for a stop, not much history evident.  Shops, minibank, post etc.  New facilities on the pontoon .  

Thursday  2nd. July    To Træna    66.30N / 12.03E

 

Wind : 2-3 m/s                        Distance : via Sanna 32,5mn

Time:   5 hrs                            Pontoon fee:  kr 100

 Træna at a distnce, early in the morning

Caught a fair sized tusk (brosme) at 50 meters depth, just south of Lovund. Skipper surprised at muscular strength of the beast! Norma becoming an expert gaffer. Hundreds of puffin chicks doing their best to fly, then an eagle nesting on a beacon top. Magnificent views all the way towards the dramatically formed Træna islands.

Stopped at Sanna, the outermost Træna  with its  mountain top radar station. Hike to see the huge cathedral cave and learn more about this, the oldest fishing village in Norway – with house ruins dating back to stone age.

Then round to Husøy where most of the 450 strong population of Træna live.

We have now reached the Artic circle 66.30 deg N.

 

Met by a very hospitable Ole Johnny Olsen, the local shopowner, on the pontoon just outside the northern harbour on Husøy. The normal guest harbour lies slightly further south. Træna’s houses are  remarkably well kept, new business premises have been built and older ones brought into use again, as for example the kafè by our pontoon. We had a lovely Caesar salad  and interviewed the two young enthusiasts recently moved up from Oslo: Bjarne Ylvisaker and Marit Bertheusen. Both with 10 years of hotel-catering experience. Their idol is the successful Malin at Klokkergården on Rødøy, who we shall visit later. Husøy is today a thriving fishing community with a fish processing factory. The Norwegian government had just decided to give Træna electricity grid connenction to the mainland, and to build a new indusatrial key. There is a future at Træna!

 

Friday 3rd.- 5th. July            To Myken then Rødøy

 

Wind. Increasing with gusts up to 13 m/s  Distance: 36 nm

Time : 5 hours                             Pontoon:  kr 100 +w25 for elect.

Early start to go via Myken lighthouse where there was a short pontoon, though more pontoon space on the populated island Myken.  Picturesque surroundings and fishing village, but little vegeatation in comparison to Træna.

Good reach from Myken to Rødøy , sailing at last into the fantasic arkipelago of Rødøy.

Klokkergården on Rødøy has expanded since we were here 5 years ago. Malin Arntzen , the owner, has now 2 pontoons and plans a third pier for larger boats. She has three large  buoys which can be rented on a day basis or for longer periods  at NOK 1000/month.

Malin is full of energy, enthusiasm and plans – service for sailors and their boats, rooms for guests, restaurant, newly baked bread brought aboard in the morning. And much more.

Klokkergården is a family company with 2 brothers, mother (cook), father and Malin. The business does well now and almost all the boat guests eat at the restaurant.  Hiking up to the top of spectacular Rødøyløven and cycling are popular activities for sailors needing to stretch their legs.

Two night stay at Rødøy gave good time for a hike up Rødøyløve on Sat. Fantastic views  in all directione from the top.  Met HR 39 “Kamci” with friends from Molde again and sampled Malins fish courses and white wine in the evening with them.

 

Sunday 5th.- 7th    July  to   Ørnes     66.52N / 13.42E   

Wind : 8-12 m/s                     Distance:  27,6nm

Time:   44,5 hrs.                      Marina fee: kr 60 + kr 20 for elec.

 

Fine sail to Ørnes which was a delightfully quiet harbour sheltered from the cold northerly winds at sea. Met “ Petrell” with a really helpful, friendly crew. Spent a warm sunny day waiting for daughter Lena who came with son Jesper on Monday.

Ørnes ahd a fine but small guest pontoon by the clubhouse, with all facilities, diesel on the pier and shops near by.  

 

Tuesday 7th. July  To Vallvågen, Meløy

Wind: Almost calm in the fjords, 9-11m/s at sea   Distance : 7,6 nm

Time 3 hrs                                 Marina fee : kr 60 + 20

Valvågen Båtforening has a quiet harbour with a few guest berths and a cluhouse, with toilets and showers but no laundry machines.  Open kafe in the summer.  Magnificent scenery with hundreds of easy climable peaks and Holandsfjorden with Svartisen  glacier just a couple of hours in the fjord.

Fine weather for fishing.Teaching Jesper how to fish on the way. Caught enough cod and saith for skipper Jon Erik to fillet and mince. Fish deep two hours before high tide is the rule for maximising catch. Delicious fishcakes for our evening meal.

Fun to have some of the family aboard.

 

Wednesday 8th July   To Støtt   66.55N 7 13.26 E

Wind: calm to 8-9m/s                    Distance:  12nm

Time:  2hrs                                     Harbour fee: kr 80 +20

Trying to avoid too much wind, we left relatively early and had an easy sail over to Støtt, before fishing for a while. Jesper is an eager pupil and has already “mastered” several types of fishing.   Hope to see the Midnight sun tonight.

The Sørensen family still own and manage the fish processing plant, store and post office here.

This  harbour is sheltered from all winds.  Showers and WC available.

We have been extremely lucky weatherwise so far.

  

A few strokes in water only 10 dec. C             Støtt harbour with welcoming flags

 

Thursday 9th. July  To Sørfuglanøy     57.03N / 1346E

Wind : 6-8 m/s                 Distance :   12,7 nm

Time :  3 hrs                    Marina  :      kr 65

 

Sail in fine conditions to one of natures pearls--mountainous islands, long white sandy beaches, birds and plants. Met 3 fellows on a holiday, rowing from island to island in a Norlands boat. They often row early in the morning when the sea is relatively calm.

 

 

Friday  10th. July   To Bodø    67.17N / 14.22E 

 

Wind:  2.3 m/s                    Distance : 21 nm

Time:  3hrs                         Marina fee: kr 150 incl.electricity

 

Early start 5 am. Found a berth on the guest pontoon in time for a shower and breakfast with Lena and Jesper before they left for home.  Bodø harbour is undergoing renovation. A new promenade and harbour front will be finished within a year.  

Visit to the Aeronautical museum.

 

2 day stay waiting for next crew.

We've had a week of fantastic weather!

We've now reached our most northerly point for this cruise.

 

Monday  13 th.  July   To Sør Arnøy   67.08N / 13.59E

 

Wind  :  2-3 m/s                 Distance 12,5 nm

Time  : 3 hrs                      Marina fee kr 125

 

Short trip with our new crew. Carefull manoeuvering into Krokholmen pier, marked on the map as dry at low tide. Wonderful nature spot with bridges between the small islands.

Dinner at the restaurant has to be ordered in advance.

 

Tuesday 14th. July   To  Sør Fuglø      67.09n / 13.47E

 

Wind : 0-2 m/s              Distance : 8,3nm

Time : 2hrs                   Marina fee : kr 65

   

Long sandy beach at Sørfulanøy                          Harbour from the distance        

 

Very short guest pontoon but the local people are willing to help.  Pay the fee even if you use a local berth. We set a creel outside the harbour in the evening  and had a catch of 8 crabs, much to the crew's delight.

 

Wednesday 15th. July    To Bolga  66.48N / 13.14E

 

Wind :  0-3m/s                  Distance : 31,2nm

Time : 3,5 hrs.                  Marina fee : kr 60 + 20

Bolga is an interesting island to visit with its mountains and hiking possibilities.  Several people stay on the island whcih has salmon farms and other industries. We had a fine crab meal ashore in the evening and a hike to Bolgabørra - a hole through the mountain - and Ruggesteinen - a huge stone that can be rocked from side to side. 

 

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Bergen to Trondheim       Trondheim to Bodø     Southwards from Bodø          

 

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