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Western/Northern Norway 2009
Part 2 Leaving Bergen, sailing North to Trondheim
Part 1: Åsgårdstrand to Bergen Part 3: Trondheim to Bodø
Part 4: Southwards from Bodø
Vis Nord fra Bergen i et større kart. Click for larger interactive map
Kolgrov harbour
Saturday 30th. May To Kolgrov 61.00,46N / 04.40,07E
Wind: S-SW 5-10 m/s Distance: 44,2 nm
Time : 7,5 hrs. Marina fee: kr 0
A very nice genakker reach all the way out Fedjefjorden, across Sognesjøen, the ocean outlet of the majestic Sognefjorden, to Kolgrov on the western side of Yttre Sula. The two of us handle.the genakker nicely with a “stocking”, or strømpe, in Norwegian. Getting the genakker down ,or .snuffing it, in rolling seas and increasing wind is safewith this stocking which is pulled down from the top
Kolgrov used to be a thriving fishing harbour for the herring. No postoffice or
shops left, just a couple of sheep farmers and crabfishermen . Three German tourist fishermen renting the old houses and fishing what is left of the cod. A local farmer /crab fiherman observing that most of fish and seabirds are gone. Reason: overfishing and bad fishery management. But as a safe and scenic harbour for us sailors, Kolgrove is quite unique.An overhead cable 20 m limits the entrance from the south for larger sailing boats
Den Norske Hesten i bakgrunn
Sunday31.May To Kalvåg 61.45,91N / 04.52,67E
Wind:SW 5-6 m/s Distance: 49,8 nm
Time :8 hrs Marina fee: kr130
Warm sunny weather continues and southerly wind. Mooring at Holmen restaurant. Asbjørn Førde, son of one of Jon Eriks old skipper friends from his work with line fishing thirty years ago, came to visit us.
Found Irish Pamela Dunbar in Holmen Atelier which she opened a few years ago.She is working particulariy with computer driven knitting and makes fascinating design woollens..
Chatted with the owners of Athena, another HR from Florø.
Good restaurant with really nice folk. .
Monday 1str. June To Måløy 61.58N / 05.07E
Wind: N W 10 m/s Distance: 20,9 nm
Time : 3,5 hrs Marina fee:kr150 + electricity kr 30
Spent a leisurely morning having a walk, talking to a German film team making a film called “Love in the Fjords”, updating fotos for the web – that certainly takes time! We have internet connection using ICE continually, though the speed isn’t quite the same as broad band.
The variety of flowers blooming already is surprising – rhododendron, bluebells, delphiniums, cornflowers, lupins, phlox etc..
Hornelen Garden beauty
Short sail enjoying remarkable nature with Hornelen mountain, glaciers, isolated farms and fjords.One German Najad in Måløy guest harbour.
Short wave radio friend, Oddmund Barmen, kindly drove us around Vaagsøy in the evening. Amazing scenery at its best in the fine weather – Stadt, Kråkenes lighthouse, small harbours, windmills, an ancient little watermill, sandy beaches, hills and valleys., Måløy bridge and sailboat marina on the eastern side. Interesting building system in Måløy, zig-zagging up the hillside. Streets, more or less paralell, named 1,2 3 etc. Hiking and sports facilities at the top.
With friend and guide Oddmund Barmen Ancient watermill
Sandy beach
Tueday 2nd. June To Ålesund 62.26,32N / 06.09,2E
Wind: NW 5-7m/s Distance: 54,8 nm
Time : 8 hrs Marina fee: kr 150 incl. electricity
A really early start - 5am. to get round Stadt before an expected wind increase. Uneventful sail, fine landscape with snow on the mountain tops. More snow is forecast above 600m! Unstable wind, reasonable seas 1-2m. Spent a pleasant afternoon in Ålesund though it was cold and rainy.
Wednesday 3rd. June - We’ve had a busy but delightful ”rest” day in Ålesund, despite winds up to gale force and really heavy rain showers We’ve walked around the town for hours, sightseeing and buying some necessary equipment. Noticed that many shops and offices were empty, no doubt a result of the financial crisis. Ålesund is known as Norway.s Jugend town and has many beautiful buildings from that period
Ålesund, the Jugend town with the old pharmacy building, now museum to the right
Jon Erik, fish enthusiast, bought the raw materials for dinner. For a starter we had deliciuos Norwegian lobster followed by a main course of “fish parcels”.
Fish parcels
Different sorts of fish - salmon, ling cod, haddock and monkfish .were cut into cubes about one inch in size. Approx 250 gr per portion
Mussels and shrips according to taste or availability.
Cut up tomatoes, cucumber, champignon and any other veg. at hand into small pieces, Chop garlig and chile pepper finely.
Use one large bit of aluminium foil per person.
Pile fish and veg. in the middel along with a slice of lemon , salt, pepper.
Lift up the corners of the foil and fill some white wine in the package before sealing it at the top.
Grill the packages or bake in the oven at 180-200 deg. For about 20min.
Serve with baguette and butter – and a good dry white wine.
Thursday 4th. June Another fine day in Ålesund, visitng different galleries, museums and antique shops. Jon Erik is now the proud owner of an ancient meatmincer and even more fishing equipment. Home made fishcakes soon!
Chatted to several crews from boats mostly on their way north. The most charming and inspiring were two british ladies, Christine and Pat, of our ripe age in their Malø 36 Victrix of Harwich Had a beer with them at Dirty Nelly and exchanged sailing stories. They are well informed and experienced sailors.
Met also the crew on "Isogaiza", Svein, Elin and Stine on their way home to Kristiansund after a years sailing in warmer waters.
Weather sunny ,rainy and rather chilly. New snow on the mountain tops. Summer soon?
Pat and Christine by Victrix Ålesund marina
Friday 5th. June ToTornes 62.50,18N / 07.02,53E
Wind: NE 8-11m/s Distance:41,1 nm
Time: 6 hrs. Marina fee:kr 100 incl electricity
Tornes marina Bygdeborgen på Fræna
An easy start at 9:30 from Ålesund. Wind still strong NE and not in a favorable direction for sailing.But our faithful Yanmar 55 is purring happily at 2000revs. Journey through fantastic scenery with sunshine, snow clad mountain tops, fjords, farms along the coast, steep mountain sides and ferry boats crossing here, there and everywhere.
We chose to go to Tornes, not Bud, since it was recommended as having more room and perhaps even better sheltered from Northerly winds.
Welcomed by harbour chief at Tornes who informed us about the development of the marina with a 72meters (soon 84) guest pontoon with all facilities for a reasonable price.Sailboats can winter here at ca. NOK 15/ft/mnth. Ole,who bought our previous HR 36 is harbour master here, but is up north on holiday. One of his friends Per Inge kindly took us sightseeing round Fræna and the Hustavika area – very interesting – quite different from seeing the countryside from the sea. Rich agriculture in the flatland between the Hustadvika peaks. Milk production area by (imported).thrifty farmers from the Jæren district.
The sea temp is still around 11 deg. Swimming isn’t enticing but about 30 teenagers clad in wetsuits were water skiing in the bay until 10pm.
Today’s cod wok
1 aubergine chopped
1 red pepper chopped
Half a cucumber chopped
Fry the above in oil with some red chilli and garlic until almost cooked.
Add sufficient white fish in pieces, squeeze the juice of half a lime over.
Pepper and salt to taste along with 1-2 tablespoons soya sauce and 1dl white wine.
Cover with a lid and cook slowly until the fish is just ready – no more! Serve with rice or bread.
Saturday 5th.June To Kristiansund 63.03,53N / 07.43,34
Wind: NE 4-6 m/s Distance : 43 nm
Time: 6hrs. Marina fee: kr. 0
Up bright and early, left Tornes at 6am to tackle the Stople chanel before the wind and sea increased. Navigation is intricate and transit best in relatively calm weather. Quite a challenge each time. " ISIS" HR39, on its way to Svalbard,followed from Tornes and went to Kristiansund itself, while we went to Oldenborg.. Well through the tricky lanes we sailed under the Atlantic road bridge, 23m. then inland round Averøy. Stop at Kristiansund sailing club at Oldenborg.
The Atlantic ocean bridge and road Calm weather
Surprised to find no other boats there, though one did turn up in the aftrenoon. Walking possibilities are limited to the "road" along the coast, the hillside is too steep to attempt. We're still thriving with this sailing life!
Today's menu consisted of Bacalao, a dish well known in this area, but using raw ingredient "klippfisk" from Kvitsøy this time. Klippfisk is salted and dried fish, mainly cod.
Bacalao (for 2 people)
500g klippfisk /let it soak in water for 24hrs)
125g onion in slices
50-100 ml olive oil
125 g tomato purèe
1 can chopped tomatoes
1 red paprika sliced
1 small chille pepper dhopped
400 - 500g potatoes, sliced but not peeled
garlic and olives
Mix all the sauce ingredients and layer sauce, potatoes, fish and sauce in a pan.
Cook very slowly for several hours. Using gas I find it best to cook for a little then turn off the gas for a while before lighting up gently again. This saves scorching - the dish shpudn't be stirred.
Add the olives before serving - scrumptious!
Sunday 7th. June Kristiansund town 63.07N / 07.44E
Wind: NE 3-4 m/s Distance: 4,4nm
Time: 1hr. Marina fee: kr 150 over 35ft. incl.electricity
A very short trip into Kristiansund. The cold northerly winds continue with clear sunny weather. The guest marina is very well organised with more pontoon space than on our last visit. Good facilities and effective laundry machines.
Several Norwegain boats on their way North. "Dollard" to Lofoten, "Hike VII" and "Isis" to Svalbard. Had a pleasant evening with Randi and Ole Nekstad, LA3 WRA, owners of our previous HR 36.
Jon Erik has daily contact with other radio amateurs, both in Norway and Scotland. We are ahead of our plan so have plenty time to visit the outer islands before going in to Trondhaim around 17th June - weather ???
Isogaiza back home in Kristiansund
Monday 8th.June Kristiansund
Warmer morning.
Interesting day in Kristiansund. Of the boats in the guest marina, 4 were HR,1 Malø, 2 other sailing boats and only 2 motor cruisers.Two of the boats were foreign. One, from USA, Indigo owned by Cathy and Bill from Colorado, is on its way to Svalbard as are the two ther Hallberg Rassy boats in the marina.
Met our British friends again after they had crossed Hustadvika through Stople channel Service at“Smia” made the dinner memorable. A surprise too, to meet Elspeth, one of Norma’s Scottish pharmacy friends.there.
Randi og Ole Skipper og mannskap på ISIS
Tuesday 9th. JuneTo Veiholmen 63.31,2 N / 07.57,5 E
Wind: NE3-4 m/s Distance :37,1 nm
Time: 5,5 hrs. Harbour fee:kr 90 incl.electricity
We arrived at Veiholmen on the outermost part of Smøla in sunny weather after sailing through a very narrow channel on the east side of the fishing village. Surprisingly, it is connectd to the the main island, Smøla. Vehicles seem to drive almost into the sea! Fascinating little village with a harbour almost enclosed by piers.Many houses, mostly well kept built close together, presumably as shelter against the winds. A school still functions with a total of 15 pupils from classes 1-7. 
We had 2 Åfjord boats next to us in the harbour. An Åfjord boat is a traditional 18th. century fishing and transport vessel, 25ft.long . Four pairs of oars and a square sail, similar to a " fembøring" These boats were built by students at Fossen Folkehøyskole. They were on a two week journey,organised by the Nature Academy at the Fossen Peninsula, rowing and sailing from island to island, fishing when possible and sleeping in tents ashore.One of the leaders, Viggo Larsen, who is well known in the area gave us some good tips on other interesting places to visit.. Water, electricity etc on the guest pontoon, groceries at the relatively large Coop. Several houses for sale. Many German tourist fishermen filleting their catch of fish in the evening.
Wednesday 10th. June To Titran, Frøya. 65.39,9N / 08.8,5 E
Wind: S 2m/s Distance: 13,5 nm
Time 2,5 hrs Harbour fee: kr 50
Electricity, kr 20, shower kr 20, Laundry machines avaiable, no shop.
Fishing en route was unsuccessful but we keep hoping for a good catch.
Quay buildings look even more derelict than on our visit 5 years ago, but the islands' people thrive on the fishing industry, Sistrand on the east coast of Frøya is most active.
No other sailing boats to be seen as far out as we are in the North Sea. .
Titran is a rather barren place with little or no trees. The inhabitants make the best of their small plots and gardens and many are beautiful.The community is quite active with book sales, concerts and gatherings of different sorts. At our visit to the local church we found a memorial for 140 fishermen who lost their lives in October 1899 in a hurricane.Weather forecasting was a problem in those days,as oppose to the possibilities we now have with VHF and internet connections continually.
Thursday 11th. June To Baarsetøya 63.06,45N / 08.16,39E
Wind:Dead calm Distance:47,1 nm
Time:7,5 hrs. Harbour fee:kr 50, electricity kr. 50
The water temp. is now as high as 13 deg.! Time for a dip with at least a couple of swimmingstrokes.
Facilities on this island are restricted though water and electricity are available.
Bårsetøye pontoon Braving the cold sea
Privately owned island in a fantastic natural situation. Water and electricity. We are again the only sailing boat, as we were in Titran and Vedholmen. We saw only a couple of small fishing boats on our way here. We felt as though we transversed Norway from one extreme to another. From barren isolated islands far out to sea to fertile, farming areas along the fjords innland with plenty of forest all around.Many salmon farms, with nets over to prevent eagles and larger birds from stealing the fish and large supply/transport boats for fish food and fish.. Quite an industry!
Jon Erik’s fishing was more positive today, one 3 kg saith being the result.Fishing by a hill on the sea bed has proved to be ideal. Fried saith fillet with onions, garlic, some chilli, lemonand tomatoes made a really tasteful dinner. 
Bårsetøya is a fine place for both children and adults. A playground with several swings and other equipment.Barbeques, some with a sheltering roof.
Good possibilities for walking
Friday 12th. 13th. June To Kongensvoll 63.33,13N / 09.24,09E
Wind: nw 2 m/s Distance: 60,2nm
Time: 9 hrs. Marina fee: kr 100
A morning dip to start the day.Fishing as we went – one mackerel and 2 small saith before we became impatient and increased our speed. Sailing through Skålvikfjorden, Strandafjorden, Arasvikfjorden,and Aursundet. One very shallow, narrow passage had to be passed to avoid bridges 16 and 18 ft high.Then out to Gjerdesvika and round Grisvågøya into the Trondheim channel..
Kongensvoll marina is very well kept and tidy and is an ideal stopping place for sailors. A short walk takes you up to the 2 windmills and a great view in to the Trondheim fjord..
Kongensvoll marina
Jon Erik spent some time here updating his info om communication and weather: Communication and weather
Sunday 14th. JuneTo Sandbakken marina 63.29,18N / 09.59,9E
Wind. NW 5-9 m/s Distance: 25,4 nm
Time: 5hrs. Marina fee: kr 100
We had a fine sail today in towards Trondheim. Chose to moor up in Sandbakken marina on the Rissa peninsula.This is a relatively new harbour with electricity, water and WC. Interesting area with a boat-motor museum nearby and the old bell/lighthouse dating from around 1900. The bell was more useful than the light which was difficult to see in fog but it had one disadvantage – it had to be wound up every 15 min. both day and night!
About 2 miles from the harbour you find a center for coast heritage and a restaurant.
Lighthouse bell Wild phlox in bloom
Monday 15th. June To Trondheim 63.26,01N / 10.22,51E
Wind: NW 10m/s Distance: 11,5nm
Time: 1,5 hrs. Marina charge: kr 100 + kr 50 for electricity
We chose to lie in the canal right by the railway station. Advice from friend: much more shelter than other guest harbours here, but maybe traffic noise.
Nidaros dommen
Siller Lass will be in Trondheim for a week while the family prepare for and take part in family celebrations..
Sommerkveld i havna
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